Dhvani Hindocha
Start your morning by the Arabian Sea with a plate of jalebi-gathiya at Chowpatty, as the sun
rises over the peaceful coast of Porbandar, a harbour town nestled in Gujarat’s Kathiawar
Peninsula. Known as Sudamapuri, the birthplace of Mahatma Gandhi and the city of flamingoes,
Porbandar offers an authentic blend of flavours rooted in the culture and geography of the land.
The local proverb “Rano, Pano ne Bhano” (referring to the royal Jethwa dynasty, the local
limestone, and legendary ghee) reveals Porbandar’s layered identity — royal, resourceful, and
rich in tradition. The ghee legacy of Bhanji Lavji Gheewala, recognised with a Raj Ratna by
Rana Natwar Sinhji Jethwa, continues to define the purity of local sweets and snacks.
In the low-rainfall zone of Kathiawad, the landscape includes the dry deciduous forests of the
Barda and Gir hills, thorn scrub and arid grasslands. The major crops cultivated around
Porbandar are chickpea, sorghum, cotton, groundnut, wheat, pearl millet, caster and cumin. The
staples include gram flour, pearl millet, brinjals, potatoes, onions and beans. Strongly influenced
by the Jain and Vaishnavite traditions, Porbandar has a large vegetarian population. Being a
coastal area, however, some of the seashore dwelling communities consume much seafish and
other seafood. The Kharwa community is a major player in the marine food trade of Porbandar.
The culinary culture of Porbandar reflects the coalesce of historical migrations, cultural
influences, weather conditions and availability of local ingredients.
Thalis offer a mix of flavours, textures and colours, every element balances Ayurveda’s six rasas
(flavours). A Kathiyawadi Thali offers the flavours of Porbandar: from Bhakhri and Rotla to
Kadhi-Khichdi, Pickles, Garlic Chutney, and Ghee-Jaggery. The must-try dishes like
Kathiyawadi Undhiyu (a winter favourite of roasted vegetables and methi muthiya typically
cooked in a pot buried under the ground and fired from the top, this is more spicy than the
mainland Gujarat versions),. Other specialities include Dhokli nu Shaak in which gram flour
pieces are added into spicy gravy, Sev-Tamatar in which tomatoes are cooked, seasoned and
topped with sev (deep-fried gram flour noodles), Dungri Shaak (stuffed onions curry) and
Ringan no Olo which is a popular brinjal preparation eaten with Bajra Rotla (pearl millet flour
flatbread). The food is cooked over a sagri or traditional clay stoves with coals or dry dung as
fuel, adding rustic flavour and smokiness to each dish. Kesar and other mango varieties grow in
the region, and mango pickles and relishes are very popular in the Porbandar thalis.
Manek Chowk is the heart of local food culture — bustling with shops offering fruits,
vegetables, groceries, and also freshly made ganthiya, jalebi, dhokla, bhajiyas, etc that you can
enjoy.
At Porbandar, you can try spicy dishes made using chillies and garlic, and dishes sweetened with
jaggery.
The surroundings of Porbandar are rich in animal husbandry and famous for high-quality pure
milk and ghee, especially Barda region. Dairy products like kadhi, curd, chaas, makhan (butter)
and ghee are integral to the Kathiawadi meal. Chaas (buttermilk) soothes the palate between
spicy dishes. The local restaurants like Shree Raghuvanshi, Kasumbo, and Gurukrupa carry this
tradition forward.
Don’t leave without trying or taking home Masala Khajali — a soft, flaky, peppery snack best
paired with chai. Other signature snacks include Thepla, Khakhra, Khandvi, Gathiya, and the
savoury cake-like Handvo. Sweets such as Mohanthal, Adadiya, Sata, Boondi, Sukhadi, and
Shrikhand define Porbandar’s dessert scene. A popular pair of shrikhand – puri is often found on
the festive menu and has been a part of celebration since years. Shrikhand is a sweet dish made
with sweetened yoghurt (hung curd) and classically flavoured with cardamom, saffron and nuts.
It is often flavoured with seasonal mixed fruits, the popular being mango shrikhand. It is served
with puri which is a deep-fried puffed bread. Puri with shaak, a spicy potato preparation is also
popular even in breakfast.
Vaishnavs and Lohanas are among the main business communities of Porbandar. The city was
one of the first in western India to start producing cement and still has a well-known cement
plant.
Bhanji Lavji Gheewala is a firm by a Lohana trading family that has been operating for over 150
years. The legacy of providing best quality ghee continues with the present generation of the
family. The quality is assured with the BR reading test and vegetable test followed by Agmark
before it is sold to customers. They are into retail and wholesale business supplying all over
India. The sale often exceeds 40-50kgs daily and the highest demand is observed on the day of
the Janmashtami festival. Bhanji Lavji Gheewala was also awarded with Raj Ratna by His
Highness Maharana Natwarsinhji, the last Jethwa ruler who signed the accession of Porbandar
State to India after independence.
The Muslim Miyana community has a significant population in the Porbandar district of
Gujarat. They are considered to be among the Gurjar communities that converted to Islam.
One of the dominant communities of Porbandar, the Mers are known for their Raas – the Mer
Dandhiya dance celebrates their martial heritage. Mers are mostly vegetarian, with pearl
millet (Bajaro), sorghum (Jowar) and wheat rotis being consumed with vegetables, chillis
and curds. During weddings, jaggery-ghee, lapsi and khichdi is served.
The Kharwas are the maritime community of Porbandar. Most of them are in businesses of
dhows and boats, fisheries and marine products, and trade. Like other marine communities,
Kharwas celebrate the opening of the seafaring season, after the passage of the Monsoon which
falls on the full moon in the month of Sravan. Various offerings, including flowers, coconuts and
incense sticks are offered to the deity of the sea. They worship Dariyalal as their sea diety, and
follow Shakti through the worship of Ambaji, Bhadrakali, Bahuchara, Chamunda , Samudrī,
Sikotarī and Hinglāj. Shravan Purnnima is celebrated with worship of Varuna, Shiva,
Paranjay and Ratnākar, with Ganesha to remove any obstacles from their upcoming journeys
into the sea.
Porbandar’s fishing economy supplies a bounty of seafood — pomfret, kingfish, hilsa, ravas,
pink perch (rani fish), squid, crabs, prawns, etc. Trawlers offload fish like vichuda, boomla, dara,
dhol, tanti, madra, khaga, gandiya, vam, sag, happari, bega, dai, pink perch (Rani), dhoma, etc at
the harbour. Grilled, fried or steamed queen fish is a delicacy with a mild taste and delicate
texture, reflecting Porbandar’s rich maritime heritage, seafood tradition and culinary excellence.
Other popular local dishes are dry prawns, fried fish, prawn and fish curries.
The city has evolved with changing tastes — cafes and QSRchains like Domino’s, La Pino’z,
Zorko, and Crush Coffee bring fusion and fast food, yet locals and visitors continue to crave the
traditional fare that tells stories of heritage and home.
No matter how modern the city gets, a day in Porbandar begins with puri-shaak, jalebi-gathiya,
or dhokla — a soulful taste of tradition that refuses to fade.
ABOUT THE AUTHOR
An alumni of IIHM – Ahmedabad known for her sugar art and designer cakes, Dhvani Hindocha
is a resident of Porbandar.
