This visit to Sayla was organized as the first of the attempts by FEA to support small self-sustaining family-run properties in rural areas where local cooks and artisans need tourism revenue to thrive. The participants included bloggers, heritage enthusiasts and photographers.
We took an early start from Ahmedabad to reach Sayla in time for breakfast at the Bell Guest House. This colonial-period guesthouse of the Jhala Rajputs of Sayla has some interesting European, Indian and even Gujarati architectural features. Somrraj Singh Jhala from the erstwhile ruling family of Sayla greeted us at the portico.
A unique feature of the Sayla heritage is the mix of cultures – Somrraj Singh’s mother was from Bolangir Patna in Odisha and his grandmother was from Patiala. He told us about matrimonial links with families in Chhattisgarh and other parts of India too. Therefore a mix of food from Odia fish dishes to Patiala’s pulao to Jodhpuri mutton and Kathiawadi dishes are part of the repertoire of Bell Guest House cooks,
He had asked his cooks from Odisha to prepare the food. Brreakfast included Odia-style Samosas, Barri Vada, Gughni, Chakli Pertha and Chai.
After breakfast, we set out to Sejakpur where we visited the 12th century Navlakha Temple , an architectural gem of the Solanki Rajput period, and nearby ruins. At the village of Sejakpur we saw Kathi women doing beadwork. The countryside was scrubby – we saw two snakes, a red sand boa and a ratsnake, and a few birds typical of the dry landscape. For lunch, the Bell Guest House had set up an Odia lunch most suited for the warm and humid weather. The centerpiece of the meal was the Dahi Pakhala Bhat prepared with rice, curd, cucumber, cumin seeds and mixed spices. Around the rice pot were set a number of plates and bowls filled with Bhajas, Bhajis, Fried Fish, Chingri (prawns) and Tomato Chatni. For desserts there was malpua with Rabdi.
After lunch, we set out on a textile trail visiting the ikat weavers who make richly patterned sarees and other fabrics, the tangaliyo weavers and a family that weaves rugs using recycled threads and fabric pieces.
We returned to Bell Guest House for chai and Kathiawadi snacks before starting the return journey to Ahmedabad.
Photography credits: Antara Boruah
